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Purchase or Last Upgrade Date
Dec 26, 2020
Estimated Value ($)
Brand & Model
Windows 10 Pro
XEON x5675 with 6 cores and 12 threads running at default speed (3,06Ghz turbo mode 3,5Ghz)
12 GB RAM Corsair Vengeance 1600 DD3 (12800) with three 4 GB modules running triple channel
Asus GT730 SL (passive cooled) 2GB DDR at 135/450 Mhz
Asus P6X58D-E ATX socket 1366, Intel X58 with 6 DDR3 slots (two per channel)
Samsung 860 EVO 250 GB (for OS and programs with 250Mb/s read-write)
Samsung 960 NVMe PCIE 125 GB (for documents and mail with 1250 read and 750Mb/s write)
Seagate ST2000 2GB HDD (for pictures and movies with 150Mb/s read-write)
Toshiba 1TB USB disk for half yearly image and data backups
Cooler Master with 3 low noise, low RPM case fanse (two sucking in air at bottom, one pushing out air at top of the case)
PSU (Power Supply)
Coolermaster Lite 400W low noise (placed at bottom for separated airflow)
LG 21 inch GSM5B55 with Trust Astro soundbar
Personal, primary device
Keyboard and Mouse
Perixx ergonomic keyboard (no numeric keypad) with Logitec ergonomic mouse (right hand) and Kensington trackball (left hand)
Pcie TP-Link WDN4800 Wireles card (802.11n) with TP-Link AC3200 router delivering 95% of my 150/15 Mbs down/up contract of my ISP (Ziggo start XXL).
My computer protection
1. Early Launch AntiMalware set to 'run good only' at system start.
2. Configure_Defender on Max.
3. Simple_Windows_Hardening on High.
4. Enabled Code Integrity Guard for Office2016 and Edge.
5. WFW blocking inbound, alllowing outbound except for sponsors (block rules copied from H_C in reg-file).
Quoted: "My computer protection: 1. Early Launch AntiMalware set to run good only at system start."
Which app do you use and how have you configured it?
Edit: In the meantime I have seen it's a driver. My question is answered.
I have Windows 10 Pro. it is a setting I have enabled with the group policy editor. It blocks software which are not known good at system start (link). Before I enabled this setting I made an image backup with Macrium and checked with Autoruns whether I had any non-Microsoft (co)signed drivers. All the drivers were Microsoft signed, so I did not risked Windows running into a BSOD because a critical driver was blocked starting. I like to have this optional feature enabled (although it has its risks), because I have an old bios/mobo I can't use (EUFI enabed) secure boot.
While separating the garbage I found an old tupperware plastic box. I smiled and remembered my first desktop which had an air intake with sort of the same shape. So I dove into my PC spare parts box and found a 120mm fan and ... the plastic box fitted perfectly around it. So I cut out the bottom of the tupperware box and placed the 120mm fan with plastic box on the case fan mounting right above my CPU.
The extra case fan blows air (from the room) to the cpu fan and the plastic box inlet prevents this (cooler) air to be mixed with the (hotter) air inside the PC. Room temperature outside the PC is 20 degrees Celsius, HWinfo says auxiliary temperature inside the PC case is 32 degrees Celsius (measured on motherboard). Because the CPU fans sucks air from outside the PC, the initial temperature of the air flowing over the fans is 12 degrees cooler, this explains why CPU is 7 degrees cooler (was higher, but I changed fan profile to 'silent' in the BIOS). CPU fan now runs at 1100-1200 RPM (in stead of 1700 to 1900) and the extra 120mm case fan runs at 650-750 rpm.
This el cheapo CPU cooling trick still works (more important with less noise )